Monday 12 March 2012


My grandmother's argument:

I grew up in an argumentative, eccentric family,  both immediate and extended. Some of us were quiet and eccentric, the others voluble, volatile and eccentric. Almost everyone knew what they wanted (at least you were expected to, so that you could argue your point) and mostly it never matched with what anyone else wanted.

I had just left a tiny, isolated, protected colony life and come to study in Calcutta. I was living with my father’s eldest brother, his wife and my grandmother in a large, rambling, unplanned house in New Alipore. And learning my way around the city. I was also slowly beginning to comprehend how different life would be for me in the city that in had been in my last 16 years.

One day, early into my stay, I wanted to go over to the other side of New Alipore to visit an aunt. I was reading the newspaper in the drawing room as was most of the family when my aunt mentioned to the maid that she should add another cup of water – a cousin would be here soon.

Sipping her tea, my grandmother said, “That boy is too thin – he should eat more. Wasn’t he here for lunch yesterday? Why is he coming again today?”

“He’s coming to escort Rupa to her aunt’s house. Rupa is still too new and I don’t think she should go alone, so I have asked him to come and go with her,”  said my uncle.

“Escort?” said my grandmother, and the disapproval in her voice made me nervous.  I let go of the newspaper.

“Of course,” said my uncle, not looking up from his paper, “suppose she gets lost?”

As I looked anxiously at my grandmother, her face rearranged itself into a look that we had all learnt to fear.

“If Rupa has to go, she will go alone. If she cannot go alone, she will not go at all,” said my grandmother. My uncle put down his paper. The battle lines were drawn.

The battlefield emptied with lightning speed. My aunt floated away to the kitchen, marking her presence through the rest of the battle by sending out regular supplements of tea and toast. My uncle’s hangers on (who were a permanent fixture in the house thanks to my uncle’s recent retirement from the state government and his leadership in an upcoming political party) mumbled excuses, called out, “Achcha Boudi, chollam!” and slipped down the stairs.

My grandmother and uncle faced each other over the tea table. “Rupa will go,” said my uncle, “but she will go with an escort. Calcutta is not what it was earlier.”

“Rubbish,” said my grandmother firmly, “ you mean to say, if a place becomes unsafe we should stop moving about? And I think you should stop all this hype about Calcutta becoming unsafe. Look at me – I move around the city – in a bus! No one says anything to me.”

I tried to imagine the fate of anyone who would say anything to her, but was incapable of doing so. And besides this argument was far too exciting already.

“There is a lot of difference between Rupa and you, Ma,” said my uncle equally firmly. My grandmother fixed him with a raised eyebrow. He specified – “She is new to the city, you have been here for the last 30 years.” The eyebrow came down.

“If she is going to stay here, she had better learn to navigate the city soon,” said my grandmother, “And how is she going to do that if there is someone to do it for her? What a ridiculous idea!”

This was too much for my uncle. “Whys should it be ridiculous?! Her father’s left her in my charge, I have a responsibility towards her. What will he say if he knows she is wandering about alone?”

“Wandering alone?,” said my grandmother, incensed, “Why if he was so bothered, why did he send her here in first place? And himself live in the jungles where you cant even put in  a trunk call easily! And why are you thinking of your brother only? What if your sister asks you as to why you are ordering her son about on a Sunday morning to do silly things like escorting cousins! And even if he does escort her, what is he to do when she gets there? Come back? Or hang around?”

The bell rang and the cousin in question arrived. Sensing battle, he quickly joined me in the ringside seats and grabbed a toast while the tray was heading for the table. The battle continued undisturbed.

“I wish you’d stop going on about being a woman,” said my grandmother irritably to my uncle, “Of course Rupa’s a woman. What else would she be? And a woman is a woman.” Pause.

“For that matter a man is also a man.” Pause again. No arguments to that.

“Well, what I meant was, Rupa cant go about changing her life because she is a woman. She will have to learn to do only the things she can do alone. She’s not going to have an escort all her life. I haven’t. And I’m not dead, am I?”

By now, I had figured that such arguments (and there would be many to come) were more about the reasoning than the actual decision. Niether  my grandmother nor my uncle had any intentions of making the decision for me.  Finally I got to choose what I wanted to do and stand by it. As I would be expected to do in future.

I remembered this argument for many years to come. Of the many things I remembered was one critical thing – that I should learn to do the things I can do alone. And if I couldn’t do it alone, I shouldn’t do it at all.

Since this came from my grandmother, I took it for granted. That all women should be independent. And so to imagine a world of independent women: independent women would mean women who make up their minds without whining and griping. Women who wear their clothes with confidence instead  of simpering. Women who take care of their bodies ad their minds. Women who drive their own cars. Women who make their own money, operate their own accounts. Rich women, healthy women, happy women. 

That is probably what my grandmother in all her pragmatism was looking for. Turns out she was in a minority. Its still a minority, but a slowly growing one. A small but determined group of women (never mind what women's rights groups tell you -its still painfully small) and one must duly acknowledge, also men, are working hard, very hard for independent women. Why?

Well, they all have their reasons. As I have mine. And besides, independent women make for a better quality of argument. And as a true Bengali, that is a good enough driver....   

Sunday 11 March 2012


Technically this blog is not about the road. It is about experiences, mainly of women, because I am one. Why this name, then?

One of my favourite travel authors describes an experience where is is told that if he reaches Place X, he will find a bus to the city he wishes to reach. With great difficulty and after 4 long days, he reaches the designated Place X to find there was absolutely no bus. Exhausted and at his wits end, he enquires of the sole villager he can see - "Good sir, isn't there a bus to City Z?"
The villager replies in the negative.
The traveller asks desperately - "But why is there no bus?!"
The villager looks at him sternly and replies, "There is no bus, because there is no road."

Being a woman myself and worked with women's issues for over 21 years, I find the answers to many of the problems and their solutions is as simple as that - we cannot move from where we are, because there is no road. But the travel author mentioned above does get to his destination. And so do many women.

This blog is about circumstances in our lives when we are sternly told that there is no road. And it remains up to us - do we find a road? Do we give up and stay on at Place X? I am sure this happens to men too. But for the time being, I do not plan to include them in my musings, except in their different roles in our lives.

This blog remains a personal space for my experiences and analyses as a woman. Of my reactions and those of the women I know and have worked with (ranging from helpless giggles to complete outrage) to being told, "There is no road."